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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.